Madrid * Toledo

2 - 6 March, 2003

I had spent 7 weeks on project in Madrid, in spring 2000 - however, I had not seen much of the city, except hotel, workplace and airport. So thanks to Germanwings flying from Cologne, I finally had the opportunity to have a closer look at the sights of the city. My Spanish friend and colleague IVan was very helpful with some hints he gave me in the run-up to my trip.

Accomodation
Initially I had booked Hotel Asturias through an Irish agency. But as they charged my credit card months before the trip, I cancelled my booking, and had a look at the hotel's own website. And behold, that even saved me some money! And a hotel could hardly have a better location in Madrid than the Asturias - it is just a three minute walk to the Puerta del Sol, the "kilometre 0" of all Spanish country roads. The Prado museum, Parque del Retiro and the Plaza de Cibeles are just as well in walking distance, as are the Plaza Mayor, the old town and the royal palace. Of course such a central location has a drawback - the noise from Calle Sevilla can be quite tedious. Besides, you have to cut back a bit regarding building and comfort, and breakfast was a bit too onesided and southern for my taste. On the positive side, the staff was very helpful, and with exceptionally good knowledge of English, which cannot be taken for granted in Spain. All things considered, at a price of some € 75 the hotel is very recommendable.

Sights in Madrid
Too many to list here, honestly... The old town around the Plaza Mayor is very animated, on my first evening there was a carnival concert, with a strongly latin American / canarian flair. An absolutely breath-taking sight is the area around the royal palace with the Almudena cathedral, and well worth visiting too is the Plaza de Cibeles with the fountain and the communication ministery. Worth mentioning are also the Plaza de Espana with the Cervantes memorial, starting from there the old avenue Gran Via with the very interesting Telefonica building, and the Parque del Retiro. For football fans, of course Real Madrid's Estadio Bernabeu is worth a visit, and along the main artery Paseo de la Castellana, there are some very well done modern buildings.

  Excursion to Toledo
This old city can be reached by train, it takes about one hour from Madrid's Atocha station. Toledo is spectacularly situated on a hill, surrounded on three sides by the river Tajo. It is no wonder that the city was supposed to be almost unconquerable in the past. For fans of the middle ages, Toledo certainly is a must-see, with a lot of small alleys, and a terrain that goes up-and-down all the time - who lives there doesn't need a gym... Among the sights are the cathedral, the old synagogue and the city wall, while the surroundings of the Alcazar fortress seemed a bit shabby. And I have never seen a city with so many shops selling swords, shields and armours...

A few tips
I can definitely recommend the bus tours of Madrid VISION - their tours start, among other places, at the Puerta del Sol, too. Their double-decker buses take you on three tours of the historical, modern and monumental Madrid. I bought a day ticket for less than 10 €, and so I was able to see nearly everything. You can step off the bus at any stop, have a look around the nearby sights, and continue your tour with the next bus. Via a headset, there are explanations in many languages.
If you want to visit some sights again the next day, I recommend a 10 trip ticket of the Metro. Madrid's subway is clean, on time, absolutely reliable, the network very well developed, yet also clearly arranged. Even as a tourist, you quickly know your way around the various lines. I also recommend the metro on your way from the airport to the city. It costs much less than a taxi, and doesn't pose any problem for newbies.
If you are looking for a convincing meal at a good price, I recommend the various subsidiaries of the chain Museo del Jamon. Even if you are travelling on tight budget, you can enjoy simple but convincing Spanish meals there.
 

Madrid, Puerta del Sol

Madrid, cathedral San Isidro

Madrid, Plaza Mayor

Market hall near Plaza Mayor

Plaza de la Villa

Basilica San Francisco

Cathedral next to the palace

Nuestra Senora de la Almudena

The royal palace at Madrid

In front of the palace: the king's "ancestors"

Palace: frontal view

...and from the side

Toledo: Puerta de Bisagra

Toledo: Santiago del Arrabal

Toledo: Puerta del Sol

Toledo: the old town

Toledo: near the cathedral

Toledo: in the courtyard of the cathedral

Toledo: the old synagogue El Transito

It was foggy before lunch

Toledo: cathedral tower

Toledo: monastery San Juan de los Reyes

After lunch it was sunny...

...in Toledo

And middle ages everywhere

Toledo: the city wall

Toledo: bridge over the Tajo

Madrid: opera square

Modern Madrid

Plaza de Espana

Carmelite church

Templo de Debod

Panorama with palace and cathedral

Gran Via with Telefonica building

The postal ministery

Statue in the Parque del Retiro

Crystal palace in the Retiro

Puerta de Alcalá

Calle de Alcalá

Plaza Colón

Paseo de la Castellana

Changing of the guard

Toledo: the cathedral

Toledo: the Alcazar

Madrid: Cervantes monument

Near the Cervantes monument

Cibeles fountain