Cologne / Bonn

August 2003

Of course Cologne and Bonn are part of my homeland just like Brühl or Rheinbach. Due to their significance, however, I have a distinct page for these two cities. Both mean a lot to me - I have worked in both, I have partied in both, and in both of them I have friends and acquaintances. And both are definitely worth a visit - really, they are worth much more...

Sites in Cologne
Nearly everybody associates this city with its landmark, and of course the cathedral is a must see. However, this Rhenish metropolis has a lot more to offer. Regarding ecclesiastical buildings, one has to mention the romanic churches like St.Gereon, St.Pantaleon, or Apostelnkirche. I for one clearly prefer these churches over the somewhat dark, gothic cathedral - I guess I just have a taste for romanic architecture.
But "holy Cologne" is not limited to churches, far from it! After all, the proud citizens of Cologne banished their arch bishop already in 1288, and a lot of buildings are stone witness of civic pride and desire of freedom. In the old town, not far from the church Gross St.Martin, there is the old town hall, with the proud tower, a very civic landmark of Cologne before the cathedral was finished. Nearby, there is the Alter Markt (Old Market), with the Gaffelhaus and the statue of Jan von Werth, a Cologne born cavalry general in the 30 year war. And the Gürzenich, Cologne's old ballroom, is located in the old town, too.
Where once the city wall was located, you find the "Rings" today. Unfortunately, numerous factors stop this boulevard from being as glamorous as it could be. Only a few bits remain of the old wall, for example the Eigelstein gate, located in the north of the city centre, in the middle of a colourful, multicultural quarter. Further old city gates are Hahnentor and Severinstor.
Cologne is a city of museums, too. In the shadow of the cathedral, there are the Roman-Germanic Museum and Wallraf-Richartz-Museum/Museum Ludwig, which is devoted to arts. Not far from the old town, on the Rheinau peninsula, there are the Chocolate Museum and the Sports and Olympic Museum. And near Appellhofplatz, you find the Civic History Museum and the ELDE-Haus, in the Nazi era local Gestapo headquarter, today memorial for the victims of Nazism. And these are just a few examples of Cologne's many museums.
The city has a lot of modern attractions, too. Examples are Media Park, a modern area in the north of the city centre, and of course Kölnarena, located on the eastern bank of the Rhine, which hosts concerts, and primarily sporting events (ice hockey, basketball, handball) in front of nearly 20,000 spectators. Among the city's many neighbourhoods, which are well provided with pubs and restaurants, I'd like to mention - as an example - Kwartier Lateng between the "Rings" and the university, where Cologne's nonchalance blends with academic cosmopolitanism.

  Sites in Bonn
The former capital of West Germany is largely dominated by its university - it has a fairly academic, bourgeois flair. Much of the university is located in the former Palace of the Cologne arch bishops, and the palace's garden is used in summer to relax and sunbathe. Another attraction in the city centre is the romanic Münster (Cathedral), and located nearby is the impressive old post office. Not far from the cathedral is the market square, location of Bonn's old town house, and in nearby Bonngasse there is the Beethovenhaus, the composer's birthplace. Outside of the old town, one has to mention the Museumsmeile, where i.m.h.o. the "House of History" is a special highlight.

Food and Drink
Of course the main drink in Cologne is Kölsch, a top-fermented beer which some breweries also offer without alcohol. At Bonn, Kölsch is brewed as well. Local cuisine includes dishes like Hämche (knuckle of pork) and Hemmel un Ääd ("Heaven and Earth"), black pudding with onions, mashed potatoes ("Earth") and apple puree ("Heaven"). Such dishes are most recommendable in typical pubs and breweries - my personal favourites being "Malzmühle" and "Früh am Dom" (Cologne) and "Zum Gequetschten" (Bonn). In such places, you can also get the famous Halven Hahn, which sounds like a poultry dish but is a rye roll with aromatic Dutch cheese. However, being multicultural cities, Cologne and Bonn feature a great variety of restaurants, so that everybody will find their favourite food here.

Accomodation and tips
As an exhibition centre, Cologne has a lot of Hotels at all sorts of rates. I'd recommend to browse the sites of hotels and reservation services for special offers. When my friend and colleague IVan visited the Rhineland between Christmas and New Year's eve 2002, he booked the hotel "Europa am Dom" through HRS at a special rate of under € 50 B&B - room and service were fine, and you cannot get a more central location in Cologne.
River Rhine is not too spectacular between Cologne and Bonn. Yes, it is very broad, but the landscape is dominated by industries between the two cities. If you intend to go for a trip on a riverboat, you should go southwards from Bonn, e.g. to Koblenz. Along this way, views are often breath-taking indeed, with rocks and old castles - the genuinely romantic Rhine valley.
A very special event is the so called Talentprobe (talent test show) at the Tanzbrunnen, across the river from Cologne's old town. Any talent with nerves strong enough to survive this show, can be considered ready for the big stage - at least mentally. The audience is making a lifestyle of unnerve the musicians with whistling, shouting and other unfriendly acts. It is a real test...
 

Cologne: the old Town Hall

Cologne: the Gaffel building at the Old Market

Cologne: Jan von Werth monument, Town Hall tower in the background

Cologne: House Gir in the Old Town

Cologne: Great St.Martin

Cologne: his majesty, father Rhine

Cologne: on the banks of the Rhine

Cologne: pub St.Peter at the Heumarkt (Hay Market)

Cologne: the Overstolzen House

Cologne: Bridge at the Rhine peninsula

Cologne: the Cathedral

Cologne: Roman Tower

Cologne: House 4711 at Glockengasse (Bells Lane)

Cologne: Gürzenich, the city's old ballroom

Cologne: Haus Neuerburg

Cologne: in the brewery "Früh" near the cathedral

Cologne: The city gate Eigelsteintor

Cologne: A rest of the city wall

Cologne: The city gate Hahnentor

Cologne: The tower Bayenturm near the Rhine

Cologne: St.Gereon

Cologne: Apostelnkirche

Cologne: St.Pantaleon
 

Bonn: the principal palace

Bonn: today the main building of the university

Bonn: originally seat of the arch bishop of Cologne

Bonn: the cathedral

Bonn: the post office at the cathedral square

Bonn: the old Town Hall

Bonn: the old pub "Zum Gequetschten"

Bonn: city center